Tonys GT4

Celica GT4 and easy do not go together

the pipework will need fabricating we are going to do as much as we can but think phil at unique exhausts may be called on for some assistance

Jim<br><br>Post edited by: Pure Evil Developments, at: 2007/07/01 19:15

lookin good lads sorry i didnt get chance to lend a hand but u no what women and shopping are like

greg

Well i thought i'd update this thread with whats happed recently with the GT4.

Firstly, Dave worked is magic and fitted my Apexi AVC-R and PLX R500 (still need to get an adapter plate made for the Wideband Sensor, as the standard sensor has a typical wierd toyota fitment ....)

Next, getting back to the previous posts concerning the intercooler........ After a good few hours of work over two days and alot of sweat, tears and gratuitous swearing the pipework was installed by myself (1st mistake! ) but there has been a few technical problems.......... firstly, i can't go above 0.5 bar because the pipes keep popping off (While going round a round-about! ) and the samco coming off the turbo to the intercooler which i'm not happy with, and a snagging from the pipework on the underside of the bonnet (Thanks again to Dave, Minty and the angle grinder )

But hopefully, tomorrow i should have the problems sorted, as i have decided to take toyota's example of over engineering and use about fifty clamps and a foot of samco on each side of each joint and i should be back to running 1.0 bar.

I'll get some photos and post them up tomorrow after i've done the work.

sounds like you are doing a good job mate, hope it goes together right

Just thought i'd post this up, this is the ECU i'm going for -

LinkPlus G3 -

Engine Configurations:
- 2-12 Cylinder Distributed
- 2-12 Cylinder Wasted Spark
- 2-8 Cylinder Direct Spark
- 2 Rotor
- User Configurable Firing Order

Fueling Adjustments:
- Up to 440 Zone Fuel Table with configurable load and RPM centres. MGP, MAP and load options.
- Dual Fuel Tables
- Up to 4D Fuel Mapping
- Injection Rate
- Master Enrichment
- Pre Crank Prime
- Crank Enrichment
- Post Start Enrichment
- Warm Up Enrichment
- Acceleration Enrichment
- IAT Fuel Correction
- Injector Deadtime
- Overrun Fuel Cut
- Idle Load Trims
- Fuel Temperature Correction

Ignition Adjustments:
- Crank Dwell Extension
- Maximum Advance
- Spark Duration
- Dwell Time
- Up to 440 Zone Ignition Table with configurable load and RPM centres. MGP, MAP and TPS load options.
- Dual Ignition Tables
- Up to 4D Ignition Mapping
- Individual Cylinder Ignition Trim

Processing:
- 40 MHz Specialised Automotive Microprocessor
- Ignition control to 0.1 degree, fuel to 0.01 ms
- 32 Bit Calculation
- 10 Bit ADC Resolution
- Max 20000 RPM

Inputs/Outputs
- 8 High Current Injector Drives
- 8 Ignition Channels
- 8 Auxiliary Outputs
- 8 Digital Inputs
- +5V Out
- +8V Out
- 4 Temperature Inputs
- 6 0-5V Analog Inputs
- 3 Load Inputs (MAP, TPS, MAF)
- 2 Trigger Inputs (Reluctor, Optical or Hall Sensors)
- 2 Knock Inputs

Communications:
- On Board USB (Tuning Port)
- Serial RS232
- CAN

Analog Inputs:
- Wideband O2 (from external controller)
- Boost Adjust Signal
- Voltage (0-5V)
- Pyro (from external controller)
- General Purpose Pressure
- MAP (user selectable MAP sensor type)
-Throttle Position

Boost Control:
- Engine Temp Correction
- IAT Correction
- Dual Boost Tables

Limits:
- Engine Temperature Dependent Soft and Hard RPM Limit
- Engine Temperature Dependent Soft and Hard Boost Limit
- Vehicle Speed Limit
- System Voltage Limit

Triggering:
- Digital Trigger Decoding
- Reluctor, Optical or Hall Sensors
- Programmable filtering and arming thresholds
- Configurable trigger patterns or preset triggering options.

MotorSport Features:
- Antilag (Group A and Group N modes)
- Launch/Traction Control
- Flat Shifting

Auxiliary Output Options:
- General Purpose Output
- General Purpose PWM
- Continuously Variable Valve Timing Control
- Closed Loop Idle Speed Control (Solenoid or Stepper)
- Fuel Pump
- Fuel Pump Speed Control
- Engine Fan
- Air Con Clutch
- Air Con Fan
- Intercooler Spray
- Tacho
- Check Engine Light
- Purge Solenoid

Idle Control:
- Open Loop or Sophisticated Closed Loop Control
- Solenoid or Stepper Motor ISC Valve
- Aircon, Engine Fan or Power Steer idle up

Temperature Inputs:
- Custom or preset temperature sensors (IAT, ECT, Fuel Temp. or General Purpose Temp.)


Tony

Right, well turbo is back from being hybridised, Looks like new and i'm really happy with it.

Stats and figues should be available soon, and i'll post them up as i get them, but i've been told roughly that it'll easily cope with 1.5 bar with out any problems and be well capable of producing well over 400bhp

I'll post some pics up as soon as i can (Along with pictures of the FMIC as i said i would in the above post).

Tony

go tony!!! cant wait to see the gt4 running after this goes on!!!

Glad your really pleased with it!!

I look forward to seeing this in the flesh - looks uber nice

will be when its finished! GOOOOOOOOOOOOO TONY.......

As some of you know, i was having some electrical problems with the GT4, Plus the 3 things that it failed on in the MOT.

Well, i'll start with the MOT Fails first,

1.No Rear Fog Light
2.Movement in the steering column
3.Exhaust too loud

First things first, i fitted a bolt on Fog Light (Bloody awful things) and wired it up (Which inevitably caused my Little Electrical Problems.... Me and electrics do not go well together), but the fog light is working.

secondly, the steering column, after fearing that the steering rack was knackered, i was pleased to learn that the only thing it needed was a bit of TLC, The associated bolts were cleaned, greased and re-tightened and the movement is now eliminated.

Thirdly, the GT4 paid a visit to Phil at Unique Exhausts, and after discovering that the silencer that was already on the car was buggered, Phil made a new one up and also made a bung for the tail pipe, and the GT4 is now quiet(ish).

So with those thing done, the GT4 should pass the MOT retest.

Now, onto the slight electrical problems,

Firstly, i was having trouble with my battery not being able to hold and kind of charge, i believe i have sorted this, as the Main earth from the battery (Battery is in the boot) was far to thin a gauge to complete the circuit sufficiently. But it now seems to be working as it should be.

Next, The Electrical problems that were caused by myself when i was fitting the Fog light..., Basically the following stopped working - Cigarette lighter, Clock, Stereo/Radio, Electric Mirrors and Heaters. After countless Hours trying to rectify the problem, i went through the wiring diagrams again for about the 5th time, and noticed that all the effected systems were running off the same fuse, the fuse for the Cig Lighter. After checking the fuse and finding it had blown. now replaced the interior electrics are all working fine and it's all good again.

Good show Tony

I'm guessing that parts 1) and 2) and transitional arrangements

Actually, I'd like to ask you a question about wiring since you seem pretty proficient (mention of wiring diagrams..) my rear fog was wired into one of my reverse lights to pass ESVA. It really bugs me because people keep telling me that one of my reverse lights does not work. How do you think they wired that? I would really like to put it back to how it should be. I don't have to worry about the MOT for a couple of years still so it's worth it I think.

Stu.

Well stu, What i'll say is this....

The GT4 was the same, 1 reverse light was used as a Fog, when i attempted to re-wire so i'd have 2 reverse lights and a fog light, i ended up with a fog light switch that when you turned it on, both reverse lights came on....... I'm absolutly useless with electrics mate, i really am.

But, basically what the importer did with mine was cut one of the wires to the Drivers side reverse light, ran a length of cable from the former reverse light to a fog light switch, then using the power feed to the ignition harness they fed the live power cable to the fog light switch and finally a ground from the switch to a earthing point.

What i did (Probably the most stupid way around it tho) was to re-attach the cut wire to the reverse light, which sorts out the reverse light bit, then from the back of the fog light switch i ran a cable directly to the battery, a wire directly to the fog light and re-used the earthing wire.

The idiotic thing i did do (Which was why i had the interior electics problem afterwards) was to run the power for the fog light from the stereo power feed, which then unceremoniously blew the fuse, hence why i ran the power directly from the battery

To be honest you'd be better off asking someone who has more knowledge about electrics than me, seriously everytime i touch the electrics on the GT4, i bugger it up, and there has been a few examples....... Strangely enough tho, the electrical stuff i've done to the other celica, has turned out ok.................

OK, I get that.

I don't care about a fog light at all (In fact the people that converted my reverse light didn't change the bulb, so I have a white fog light !!!) So I just need to re-attach the cut reverse light wire, but where d'you think they cut it - somewhere in the engine bay or near the back of the car? Where would you guess?

Cheers Tony

Stu.

I would say it's more likely to be at the back near the light cluster, on mine it was cut about 2 inches from the bulb.

Tony