My new Almera SRi

had a good hard clean today and fitted the induction kit. the air con pipe is strapped up as it touches the manifold when its bolted onto the compressor so it needs a custom pipe making up sometime

Well ive had the dyno run done, havent had time to put the print outs up yet but it made 90hp at the wheels at 5800rpm and max torque of 130Nm at 2700rpm at the wheels.

Bloke told me the fueling was fine, on the graph it start high, drops down, goes through enrichment then settles at 13.5 between 4500rpm and 6000rpm.

Is there a rough calculation to work out the BHP from the WHP?

Finally got the print outs up, what does everyone think?




these graghs are actually at the hubs not the fly, by my calculations that makes it about 108bhp with 108k miles on it of course 100bhp when the engines are fresh

i have to say that graph has impressed me -
nicely tuned almera you have their!!
so exactly what have you done to this one?
Nice colour to - im very late to this thread

So far ive advanced the timing from 10/12 degrees to 17degrees

4-2-1 manifold, janspeed silenced decat and powerflow catback.

Tweaked head and cams is next, now the exhaust is flowing well, im left with the restrictive inlet to sort

your not late, i havent updated in 5 months lol

i've only been here three

thats my excuse

do keep us updated - nice car you have their

yeap will do, next i think though will be a FPR to smooth the torque and HP dips at 4000rpm.

Plan is dropped on coilovers, black gti alloys and a bloss black respray, simple yet perfect

Although i might be buying my mates corolla t sport come the summer mmm 1.8 190bhp!

i think the timing killed mine in all fairness. on my graph the power/torque both dipped at 3k then pulled strong til it all dropped off at 4750.

still thats a good result dude, be good to see what 1/4 mile times you can get down to next year!

to beh honest i didnt ask too many questions at thor apart from is the fueling ok, they said it was pretty good.

they also said that for 100 plus vat they would do the run and also see what timing advancement gave the best result as 7 degrees is ALOT of advancement but i couldnt afford that at the time, theres always next time though.

Still plenty more bolt on stuff to go on yet and then a remap

As for the 1/4 mile next year, confident at getting into the 16s fairly easily as from reall accurate tests COUGH, racing my mates zetec s before and after the exhaust, according to the car specs mine is now 0.7 seconds quicker to 60

Finally an update.

Almost ready to come back on the road, except i need a couple of bolts for trhe rear engine mount, from nissan theyre £6 each plus VAT and they only come in packs of 5! So thats 60 quid for 3 bolts, time to visit a scrappy..

Anyway:

Driveshafts pulled, gearbox not off yet:


Phasr 1 GTi suspension cleaned up and painted and then fitted with lowering springs.



Gearbox off, flywheel/clutch assembly


New gearbox ready to go on.


Ready to fit new box


New box on woohoo!


Screwed front mount


Lowered GTi suspension and strut brace ready to go on


Comparison between Phase 1 GTi lowered suspesion (top) and lowered SRi suspension (bottom)


Woohoo its in there!


Strut brace fitting



Driveshafts pushed back in and hubs bolted back onto suspension leg.


Happy days!

Seems` to be getting there now........like the colour of the car.......looks nice.....

paul, what is the problem that fudges gearboxes on GA's? i know its engine mount related but whats the exact cause? my engine mounts are getting ropey and i wanna make sure i dont have any major problems lol

To be honest mate i dont think its the mounts.

Before the gearbox broke, the mounts were solid, rev it hard and the engine barely moved.

My theory is that something in the gearbox siezed, which locked everything up which mate the whole engineand gearbox rock fully backwards which is what sent the gearstick shotting backwards until whatever siezed freed itself or broke. The reason i say this is that the front mount has been damaged, the rear mount has been split and kelvs manifold has got 2 broken welds on the 2-1 section and the flexi section is broken.

Im going to order some prothane engine/box mounts soon and ive also just found the better flowing american style intake manifold for 80 dollars!

Annoying thing is i stripped the gearbox the other day, expecting to see broken bearings, fragments of teeth etc, but there was no evidence it broke! All nice and smooth rotating, all syncs totally fine, selctors totally fine. So i dont know why it locked up


Next is put the lights and bumper etc back on and put the fuel regulator on.

Fitted a new rocker cover gasket while i was working on the car to sort a small leak

more details on the inlet manifold, por favor